Hat

Taken outside Bude just before Kevin lost his hat. He is adamant he put it in his pocket, so it must have been stolen by one of those pesky Corrnish Piksies (or is it Piskies?)!!

Elder Abuse

You hear about elder abuse but never think it will happen to you.... yet even after giving "The Children" tea in bed every morning, I found myself in a bed of stinging nettles - Kevin swears that he reached out to stop me falling but I think it was more like reaching out to give me a push! I got badly stung all up my right leg, buttocks and arm. It was extremely painfull for about 5 minutes then just very uncomfortable, with tingling pins & needles, for the next 6 hours.

Last photo

Walking over for this stretch. There have been some good laughs (I'll get my own back about being called an old bat, old goat and the rest next year), some toys ejected from cots, some sun, some mist, some rain, LOTS of mud but some great views and good walking. We covered over 135 miles and will start at Tintagel next year but will have to revisit the section from Hartland Point to Bude before we can claim to have walked the whole route. Now waiting for coach in Wadebridge.

More photos

To Boscastle

Last day

Julia decided that she had done enough walking for this year and caught the bus from Crackington Haven to Boscastle to meet Kevin's family. Kev and I set out at 9.30 in much better weather than we'd had so far on the walk. There was broken cloud and a light wind. Boscastle was 6.5 miles. It rained briefly but we had soon taken our over-trousers and coats off as the going was very steep in places. We went the wrong way once and ended up fighting our way through gorse bushes to get back to the path. The scenery was spectacular and we could see for miles. The yellow gorse and purple-red heather were beautiful. The going was better but there was still a lot of mud in places, there were also a lot more walkers to be seen.
The walk to Boscastle took longer than we expected and we got in at about 1.30, Julia and the gang met us and we had a quick lunch in the National Trust cafe. Kev bought me a Cornish Icecream which I tried to eat as we climbed the steep hill up from the deep harbour. I had to admit defeat and ask him to stop while I finished it off.
I expected an easier walk to Tintagel, across hilltop fields but I had forgotten the steep descent into the narrow bays and gorges, so the 4.5 miles took us until 4.30.
Gasping for a drink, having finished our energy drinks and water earlier, we both downed a long cool drink before walking up the steep hill to the town.
We saw lots of rabbits today and a field full is goats. We also walked fairly close to 2 bulls on the cliff top.
Our hotel room is very small with the smallest shower I have ever seen.
More musings once we get on the bus back to Bristol later.

Crackington Haven

Bude to Cracking Haven

It started raining at about 6.30 but was dry for the first hour of our walk over the Hills and dunes to Widemouth Bay. We met Kevin's family at 11am by which time we were soaked to the skin.
We made very good time for the first 5 miles, despite rain and strong winds.
The paths were a little less muddy than in recent days but the wind was plucking at Julia and myself and threatening to whisk us off the high headlands. We took a detour round one particularly exposed and windy headland and got bogged down in a thorny wood, though we did see a deer at close quarters. Having extricated ourselves from that we found ourselves back on the path and going up a narrow path on a ridge with beautiful red heather, yellow ground-hugging gorse, purple thyme and wild honeysuckle on both slopes. Beautiful but terrifying at The same time. I was leading and heading to what looked like a sheer drop. Kevin was convinced we were on the wrong track. It was very exposed and windy so we turned round and went back and took a path to a village and the road to Crackington Haven. We ended up doing 11.5 miles, not the 10 miles suggested by the guide book. We arrived, soaking, cold and despirited but after a hot chocolate and a hot bath the experience seemed less daunting.
Julia is not yet convinced that she will walk tomorrow. She says she will only do so if the rain and wind subside. Not sure if Kevin will walk tomorrow if Julia decides not to... Does that mean I cannot walk either? I have done this stretch on my own before... But not in these conditions..

Wed 18th

Another dull, wet and windy day but we ARE going to do today's walk from Bude to Cracking Heaven. It is 10 miles with 812 metres up and down. Not seen Julia yet this morning so I don't know how her shoulder is doing. Last night Kevin's back seemed to have benefited from the Day's rest - and the glass of single malt he had as a nightcap should have ensured a good night's kip!
Weather. Forecast is for rain to clear this afternoon. Showers tomorrow for our last day.
We intend to do the section we missed out either at the start of next year's walk or on a weekend break in between now and then.

Sunset

Taken from my bedroom at The Cottage, Heartland Quay Hotel. If only the weather today had been as pleasant as last night when I took this photo!
We intend resuming the walk from Bude to Cracking Heaven tomorrow - I just hope Julia's shoulder improves or she will have problems carrying the rucksack and coping with using her arm to balance on the steep slopes.

Heartland Quay more photos

Heartland Quay photos

Tuesday 17th

The weather is horrendous today. No visibility at all. Julia had a fall crossing a river and injured her shoulder again. As today is the toughest stretch of the path and the weather is so bad, we have decided to save it for next year.

Monday Heartland Quay

Today the paths became streams, the streams became rivers and the rivers became raging torrents. The book route told us to cross a small boulder-strewn river which, it said, "should be possible". Kevin managed it but there was no way Julia and myself were going to manage it with our shorter legs and encumbered with rucksacks, though we did try. Julia went in up to her knees twice and fell heavily on large slippy boulders, so we had to gave up. Kevin walked upstream and found a wooden bridge over the torrent in someone's back garden so we were able to use that (owner not at home to ask or object!). A little while later (by which time we were all soaked to the skin by the heavy rain) we came to an extremely steep descent with sheer drops to the sea and rocks below, which was so deep in mud that it was impossible to do it safely, especially with Kevin's injured back, so we took an inland track and abandoned the Coast Path until we got to Heartland Quay. The strong, gusting wind made walking on the cliff track precarious and the low cloud and driving rain obscured any views of the spectacular scenery.
Our accommodation here at Hartland Quay is The Cottage - which has 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms and a sitting room with fantastic views over the bay and crashing waves.
We were joined by Kevin's family and 2 friends of mine from my time at RAF Stanbridge, Marion and Alan, for a very nice evening meal then we retired to our cottage to watch the sun sink into the sea.
Unfortunately the rain is due to return tomorrow, which is supposed to be our longest and most difficult day.
Despite telling Julia and Kevin that kissing gates are not compulsory, they now seem to feel obliged to stop at every gate, stile etc for a kiss!! Enough kids! Enough!!

Monday 16th

It is now 6.30am and the forecast of rain was correct. The cloud is very low so views today will be nill.
My Dad used to say "You can go off people you know!" and I now agree.... talking about bats the other day, I said "That one is me" and Kevin said "It can't be, it hasn't got "old" in front of it. ... He had better watch his step today or he will be going over the cliff edge!! My niece is much nicer to her old Aunt...when I asked her to give me a push up a particularly deep step she nearly launched me into space! After a laughing fit she said "I didn't expect you to be so light". Time to get up now and make the children a cup of tea - I won't charge £10 for it though!!

Day 8 walk

We were a bit disappointed with The Village Inn where we stayed last night as it was without character - but nowhere near as disappointed as we were when they tried to charge us £10 for 2 half-full flasks of tea!!
The walk today was a big contrast from our last 3 days, which have mostly been on old railway track and fairly flat. Today was very, very muddy and lots of slipping and sliding up and down steep hillsides, in and out of woodlands and thickets. The rain kept off but is forecast for tomorrow.
Clovelly is a wonderful old fishing hamlet with steep, narrow cobbled streets and small harbour. Our hotel is ancient but full of character. Our bags had to come down to the hotel on a wooden sledge - and will have to go back up the slope the same way in the morning - glad I'm not pulling!! Julia was tempted by the local lobster on the menu at the Red Lion hotel/pub on the quayside, but decided she would wait.... (afternote - she never did get her lobster as it was not on the menu anywhere else!)

Day 8 more photos

Day 8 photo

Day 7 photos

Day 7 B&B

The last 4 miles from Appledore to Westward Ho! All round the headland was lovelly. Kev and I had an icecream (his 2nd of the day). Now at The Village Inn, our B&B for tonight, ok but a bit dated. Just having showers then going for a look round the town which is a bit too "seaside tat" for me!! Lots of amusement arcades, karioke etc. - I know, BB, I'm a snob!!

Day 7 morning

Despite a double bed to myself I couldn't sleep last night. B&B was superb and breakfast even better with fresh fruit, fresh juice, home made bread etc. Weather dry so far. Stopped for coffee in Bideford. Now in Appledore where the Stavros was built (that is the Tall Ship on which I sail). More later.

Friday 13th

The long walk on Thursday, along a long stretch of rough, uneven hard-core laid by the MOD, caused Kevin some back pain and as he did not wear his waterproof overtrousers the constant rain soaked down into his shoes and wet socks gave him blisters. I decided to wear my Berghause. Jacket which I thought would be better in constant rain but proved totally inadequate and allowed water to penetrate where rucksack straps rested, which meant my top half got saturated. My Berghause boots are also letting in water so my feet were waterlogged but I avoided blisters due to my 2-layer socks. Julia stayed comfy and dry in her gear. On Friday I wore my North Face high-viz jacket and stayed dry. Even my feet stayed dryer (I think because we were on tarmac, not long grass). Kevin wore his over-trousers but removed the zip-off legs from his walking pants so he would not get too hot, which kept him much dryer (I will resist the urge to say Kevin was legless all day). So all-in-all, staying more comfortable, with a shorter, flat walk, with 2 refreshment stops, a shopping spree and a BIT less rain, Friday 13tb turned out to be a good day (as it always has been for me).

Instow - view from pub

Photos from 2 days ago

Highest point on walk

Waterfall

Day 6 walk

Started raining as we set off but at least it was showers and not a continuous deluge. All today's walk was along a disused railway track - tarmac but quite nice and with views over the wide estuary. The rivers are very swollen. We stopped for coffee and a quick look round a "Mountain Life" shop so Kev could replace the ferule he lost... I bought a t-shirt, a high-vis waterproof rucksack cover and a bivvy bag. Kev also got a waterproof hat. We stopped again for food and a coffee at Fremington Quay then on to Instow. The pubs, hotels and restaurants are booked up due to a large wedding here tomorrow. Our B&B is lovelly - we have 2 rooms and a sitting room on a floor to ourselves. The owner is even doing some washing for us.

Photo

Kevin got us lost - Again!!

Day 6 start

B&B last night was best yet, as was the fish and chips. Not often you see people queueing in the rain to get into a restaurant!! Today is a short and flat walk. Now in Barnstaple having coffee. More later - if there is a signal.

Day 5 walk

The breakfast was lovelly. Set off at 8.30 and the rain started at 8.50 and has not stopped all day. We got soaked. I have not done such a long, wet, tedious, featureless walk in my life. 14.3 miles. Tomorrow more of the same but not so long. I did see some wild orchids which made my day.

Problem with phone

Day 4 walk

It was pouring as we put on our coats and boots but it stopped as we walked out of the door! The climb out of Combe Martin was tough but we did 3 miles in the first hour, then only one mile in next hour as we went down and up and round a narrow headland on narrow path. The 6 miles to Ilfracombe took us till almost 12, so we had half our lunch and a Devon cream tea. It was a very tough day with steps up and down all the combes. Ascent yesterday was 1350, today it was 1297 but harder. Lots of wild thyme, heather and other flowers and we even saw some seals on the rocks and in the sea.
The sun stayed with us all day until within 3 miles of Ilfracombe, then the heavens opened and we arrived at our B&B soaked to the skin.
After a shower and dry clothes we went out for a great pub meal (last night's was dire).
Long walk tomorrow and forecast is rain all day.

Day 3 walk

Woke at 5.45 to pouring rain. Made Julia and Kevin tea/coffee in bed. Breakfast at 8 am was superb .. Fresh strawberries and blueberries, yoghurt, grapefruit, cereals, full English, toast, tea. Set off at 9.15 but called into walking shop to buy myself a new map case. We started off in rain gear but soon took it off as sun came out. Lots of feral goats and ponies at valley of rocks. Decided on a half mile detour to The Hunters' Inn at lunchtime and it poured down while we were there. We set off again in full rain gear but the rain stopped as we set off so soon took the gear off! Very hot climb from pub, then on top of cliffs for a long way. Views spectacular. Another steep combs almost finished me off then a light drizzle but not for long. Got into Combe Martin at 5.30. Just had tea and home-made cake, now having showers, doing some washing, then out to pub for a meal. Hard day but very satisfying and enjoyable. Kevin's back doing well.

Lynton & Lynmouth

Day 2 photo 2

Day 2.

Set off walking at 9.30, just as Luggage Transfers collected our bags. Climbed up through the woods on Lord Lovelace's estate. Lots of combes, streams and waterfalls. Warm but not too sunny though we had a bit of mist for a while. There seemed to be more hills or steep valleys to climb but views once out of the trees were superb. We stopped for lunch at 1.15 at the viewpoint (with a bench!!) just past Dogworthy Combs with views along the coast and over the cliffs and hills. Arrived in Lynmouth around 4.15, had a drink in the pub then got the water-powered funiculare up to Lynton to our B&B. Now about to go out to eat. Another great day walking, dry, a bit warm, some hills, benches to sit on, beautiful goldfinches...

Day 1 photo 3

Day 1 photo 2

Day 1 photo

Day 2

It rained during the night but seems to be dry just now. I can just see the sea from my bedroom under the eaves of the low thatched roof of the pub.
Not sure what our packed lunch will be like as the foreign staff did not understand the concept....asked me what dressing I wanted on the salad which accompanies the sandwich! We will see. More later.

First Day walking

The weather did not look too good when we got up but after the drive from Bristol to Minehead it was a beautiful day. We had a mediocre bacon sandwich and coffee in a cafe then, after the obligatory photos, set off walking at about 11.15.
We decided to do the slightly longer, more rugged cliff-side route and were rewarded with breathtaking views and wonderful wild flowers. We took a wrong turn near Bossington which added about a mile to our trek but was pretty, especially the rushing stream and ford.
Our total for today was 11 miles and Kevin managed it ok without hurting his back.
Had a lovely meal in our B&B pub then an early night.

Saturday travel

Julia and Kevin got 'bumped' off their flight (this is when airlines overbook a flight and ask for volunteers to take a later flight) , so they landed at 3pm not 11.15 as planned. I got to the airport just as they collected their bags, they met me in car park and we were off! I"ve never spent so little time or money in an airport car park!! For the inconvenience of being 'bumped' BA paid them £203 each!!

We got to Bristol at 6 and were eating fantastic fish and chips by 7. Paul came over at 7.30 and we had a bit of a laugh. All in bed by 10pm. Julia suffering with a very bad cold and we will have to see how Kevin"s back gets on.... He is not allowed to carry anything.

Last minute packing

Just put the last few bits in my bag... Forgot to get myself a new map case, so will have to make do with discoloured old one again. It will no longer fasten so have to try to keep rain out.

Just looked at BBC forecast for Minehead, Porlock and Lynmouth - says dry for first 3 days !!! Up to today forecasts was for rain every day for first week. Maybe our luck will hold out yet again. Mind you, I have packed for every eventuality....

Daily breakdown of distances

Sun 8 Jul 12 Minehead-Porlock Weir, 9 miles Mon 9 Jul 12 Porlock Weir-Lynton/Lynmouth, 12 miles Tue 10 Jul 12 Lynton/Lynmouth-Combe Martin, 14 miles Wed 11 Jul 12 Combe Martin-Woolacombe, 14 miles Thu 12 Jul 12 Woolacombe-Braunton, 15 miles Fri 13 Jul 12 Braunton-Instow, 13 miles Sat 14 Jul 12 Instow-Westward Ho!, 11 miles Sun 15 Jul 12 Westward Ho!-Clovelly!, 11 miles Mon 16 Jul 12 Clovelly-Hartland Quay, 10 miles Tue 17 Jul 12 Hartland Quay-Bude, 15 miles (toughest day!) Wed 18 Jul 12 Bude-Crackington Haven, 10 miles Thu 19 Jul 12 Crackington Haven-Tintagel, 11 miles

Tin Mine

Taken the last time I did part of the Cornish Coastal Path. I hope we get some similar weather this time round! I've only walked with Julia and Kevin on 2 other long-distance treks (Coast to Coast and West Highland Way), both in the summer and on both treks we had at least one hail or snow storm......... You don't have to make it 3 in a row folks!!